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A MEMOIR OF MY PONY RIDE IN PAHALGAM, KASHMIR
I wonder how much I would have lost, had I chosen NOT to ride a pony in Pahalgam
CONT'D from HERE I think all of us were getting severe headache and feel like vomiting, probably because of the twist and turns of hilly route on the way back from Sonamarg to our houseboat. And when we reached Lily of Nageen, Fana vomited. Tsk. Thank god I didn't throw up but my headache remains for few hours and as usual I ALWAYS forget to bring any medicine while travelling and had to request panadol from Fana that night.
Kashmiri chicken curry
We had chicken curry for dinner and it was cooked to perfection and also served with finely chopped coriander leaves. I gave in finally hahaha tried to eat a bit and walllahhhh it was GOOD! Sooo sooo good! Bertambah-tambah nasik siap, yumss. Hehe. Perhaps blogging this at midnight isn't such a good idea because I'm terribly missing Kashmiri curry. We were all then decided to take shower at night rather than in the morning. I mean how often should you shower during winter, kan? Sekali sehari sudah hiks. And plus we smell soooo bad that day, need to take shower ASAP. Bau kuda sangat! Sooo bushuk. Haha. Well, the horse riding was fun but the smell is a bit euwww. Bertabah je lah, nak naik kuda sangat kan.
Our housekeeper Shabir, preparing for breakfast. Handsome enough? Haha.
Morning view at our houseboat
My UIA girls since 2005 and semua tak mandi pagi hiks
The next morning, we eventually got up, washy-washy, prayed, and dressed properly. Lesson well learned yesterday, when the weather gets cold, you need to learn how to dress for winter. And the easiest way of course; to wear layers. Our brekfast as usual was okay. Bread, butter, Kashmiri tea and there's always omelette on the dining table. We had to quickly rush after brekkie because the distance from Srinagar to Pahalgam is about 100km and it takes maybe 2 hours plus to reach the destination. On our way to Pahalgam, the drive was particularly scenic. We passed through local shops and almost all men dressed in their traditional firan (full length coat mostly worn during winter) and the girls with scarves tied tightly to their heads.
The journey today was easy compared to what we had yesterday and we were all cheerful. Perhaps, panadols we took last night really work, I believe. Hehe. We also discussed some of the things like no horse riding for today, never. Because, our butt hurt so much after the ride haha. At first, I thought I was the only one felt that way but they suffered too, eventually. Hahaha.
Almost there. The landscape here always give me goosebumps
We then realised that during winter, there are only two options going up to Baisaran Valley or people here call that place as "Mini Switzerland". It is either you have to walk for at least 7km long or... pony ride. The car cannot bring you up, it is definitely impossible.
And we... had no choice.
Most people go by pony not because of long distance but it is due to steep and rocky route up to the valley. We too, choose that route. 1 hour to climb and 1 hour to come down. The idea of pony ride up to the mountain was intimidating to be honest. I was nervous like hell haha but there were two boys who will bring us up, they were friendly and seemed experience. So we hesitantly agreed, we had no choice remember?
Hey Rani, please behave okay. Jangan bagi jatuh please
And here we go! Chalo Raju!
Rahman was the one who made the introductions and like any local, he started the conversation with this one question "Where are you from?" He speaks fluent English and asked lot of questions about us, what are we doing for living, do we travel often and so on. And looking at him, I wondered what life is really like. Everything about life here is different than life as we know it.
Rahman (on the left), he's a medical student in one of the universities in Kashmir and during winter break, he always come back to his village and worked as a tourist guide who received daily wages which I believe just only small amount of Rupees. But at least, it can help him and his family a bit, I think. And here in small part or Kashmir, every kid walks 5 to 10 km one way to go to the only school. Sobs. They had lived quite an adventurous life. Stories of struggle and hardship in the midst of what feel like heaven is way too difficult for me to digest.
He also told us that he enjoyed taking visitors into the hills and forest trails. "But you are walking, and we are riding a pony, won't you get tired"?
I can't remember how many times I was asking, are you tired? He was just smiling and said no. And at that moment, I was thinking about my brothers at home, felt like crying for no reason.
It looks familiar, isn't it? Macam Switzerland those green houses
On the way up, we can see many people passed by, some of them I can see enjoy their ride to the fullest. Well it is an enjoyable experience if you know how to ride or most importantly how to control the pony. Hehe. Rahman taught us the basic of pony riding like how to stop a pony, change the direction and make him go faster. I can say that by now I am sooo expert at how to make a pony stop. Hahaha. Senang sajork.
There were also general talks about other places in Kashmir especially Gulmarg. I told him that we will be going tomorrow. And he said you should, a must visit.
After half an hour or so, the tedious and most difficult journey started. This is the most steepest part. And now I was thinking, walking would have been a better option.
"Can I walk?" I said. And of course Rahman said no, it was steep. I actually screamed now and then because sometimes the pony would speed up and only slow down within seconds just to drink water. Duh. How dare you! While I was still on the pony, my anxiety had reached a tipping point and the next thing I knew, we already reached our destination; Baisaran Valley or Mini Switzerland. Thank god! Haha.
Can't you see a whole lot of snow welcomed us? The views up here were splendid
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And this is a very common sight in Kashmir :)
After almost 30 minutes we spent our time in Baisaran valley, its time go back. And going down again was another adventure. Haha. The steepness slightly terrified than before. And as result, Fana fell off a pony. Hahaha. I was ahead of her and straight away looking back, what hepenggg girl? How comeeeee. Hehe. Another half of the journey was easiest, alhamdulillah. As we said our goodbyes, Rahman asked us when we would be visiting again. And we said next year (but we have not visited yet, tsk). He was just smiling. Their hospitality surpassed anything I had ever imagined. Can't help but to help them a bit, if you know what I mean. So yes, sometimes the people you randomly meet on the road give you an impact. Actually before I went to India, I was telling myself, I won't be giving any tips to anyone (kedeks at first), but... end up I had to call CIMB from Jaipur just to activate my overseas withdrawal. Haha. Cashless. To be continued. Labels: India, Kashmir, Pahalgam
VISITING SONAMARG DURING THE WINTER
Thousands of apologies for the sudden hiatus from blogging. Had so little time to settle down after the exams which I failed miserably the one I took in June, and have repeated the same paper just recently in September, and failed again. I got 42 marks! Sigh. So depressed. And that was my 4th attempt FYI. Hmm. Was it that hard? Or was I not that prepared? Entahla. And I've been busy with my work too, as always. One event led to another and it all still feel a little unreal now that I find myself sitting in my room, typing this. Hehe.
Trust me, I have lots to tell, but several things have been hindering my productivity. My laziness is astonishing. After I've done and dusted with my annual peak period which has just ended in September, I snooze through quarter of the day and as a result, the body aches, the brain doesn’t function well and I just can’t be arsed to do anything at all. Yes anything, but sleep :)
So... where did I stop before? Click HERE.
We then back at the houseboat, the lights were already on, the mountains in front of our place faded away into a blanket of darkness and of course we had our Kashmiri tea again, to warm us up.
I then straight went to my room, slip under the duvet and curl up like a baby. Hehe. I was all alone at first but Nini soon joined me and believe it or not, that was the best thing ever to do during winter. BERKUNTUM! Haha.
That peaceful moment was however interrupted. There was a man rowed to our doorstep offering us Kashmiri souvenirs of which mostly pashmina shawl and some wooden fridge magnets and handicrafts. We could take a bit of Kashmir back with us home, he said. So my friend Nini, bought the magnets and pashmina but I didn't buy any of those. Just because I thought I can find the magnets later somewhere else. However, truth to be told the fridge magnet was nowhere to be found haha. Lesson learned! Beli je lah kalau dah jumpa, just buy one at least. Hehe. He was soon joined by another boat filled with handmade leather jackets and gloves. After so much consideration of the activities for tomorrow, I was thinking that I might need the gloves because I left mine at home. Sobs. So here you go, another unnecessary spending. That night, all of my friends had the leftover lunch (Hyderabad biryani) for dinner and I was just eating nasi impit with sambal ikan bilis my mom packed for me. Hehe. Pure bliss. When I got back to our room, I changed my clothes to legging and jumper, tried to sleep but couldn't. Sobs. Started thinking what if something happened to us and was this houseboat haunted or not. Tsk tsk. But anyhow, I managed to sleep and I can still remember I got up once that night to pee and had to kejut my friend to accompany me. Hehe. I woke up the next day with a minor headache, probably because of the cold or maybe because of not getting enough sleep. Our breakfast was just bread and omelette but I've had zero appetite and felt so dizzy this morning. So I've requested cereal and milk and a cup of Kashmiri tea for my breakfast. We then left for Sonamarg an hour later, located approximately 80km and about an hour and a half drive from Srinagar. The route from Srinagar to Sonamarg is beautiful. But the weather and scenery changing all the time, especially during winter. And we were lucky enough to have bright sunshine and views like these. Can't stop myself from taking pictures with my phone. Then lepastu terus rasa nak muntah. Haha. Car-sickness! You know some people they can read or even playing with the phone in moving cars, but definitely not me. Hehe. And the above is a very common sight of Kashmir. No photograph can actually bring out what it really feels like to see those mountains in the setting sun. So breathtaking. I was told by my friends that Sonamarg is also the place where the famous Hindi movie Bajrangi Bhaijan was shot. Haha. And at that point of time, I haven't watched this movie yet, so I was not that excited. Nyesal tak tengok awal-awal, Bajrangi Bhaijan is such a good Hindi movie. Hehe. And now I'm wondering if there is any part of Kashmir left untouched for Bollywood movies. We then stopped for a while at the road side to take this picture. Those small houses and the mountains at the back, they are sooo gorgeous. We spent for almost 5 to 10 minutes just by looking at this beautiful scenery. And suddenly a young Kashmiri boy rushed towards us, he didn't say anything but just look at us silently. And sometimes I think, immediate surrounding like this that drew our attention more. What do you want little boy? We then gave him some money before we left him to continue our journey. Sedekah :)
Our transportation for 4 days in Kashmir
We were driving through the mountains in Srinagar-Sonamarg route, listening to local music and our driver Nadeem turns out to be soo cheesy. He said, he likes my eyes. Hahaha. Pengsan. He was asking if the colour of my eyes is real. Ahaks. Well of course not! Grrr. Haha. I 've been wearing pure hazel coloured contacts, FYI, trying to blend in with the locals. Hiks. There came to a point which Nadeem informed us we couldn’t go any further by car. We either had to ride a horse or walk. There's one guy came along which Nadeem seemed to know him very well, I assumed. He offered us very large coats, almost two sizes large and boots, for rent. I was not really keen to rent the coat at first, entah siapa-siapa la yang pernah pakai sebelum ni haha but next thing I knew, eventually I still put the coat on.
Hehe. Our first time riding horse, so excited!
But before that, The sky suddenly looks all dramatic. At every turn , the river gave us company but the background kept changing. Sometimes it was the snow-covered mountain as a background and at other times, it filled with pine trees. Hehe. To be honest we were all first timers, and we never ridden a horse before. But horse riding is fun, no matter what the climate is. So don't worry so much, just try and have fun. In a region where everything has been associated by every actor known to Bollywood, it came as no surprise to me that the horses would also take the names of Raja and Rani. Hahaha. They seemed to fall in love and it was quite difficult to handle them. Asyik melekat sajork dua ekor. Tskk. Kuda pun ada pasangan, kauuuuu? Sedih. We were told that the horses will take us someplace where there’s a river which they called Point B. And we stopped there for a while and took some pictures. It was cold seriously. Sejuksssss sangat, our noses turned red, our toes were freezing and our faces looked pale! Masa ni semua orang rasa macam weng and we quickly decided to go back. Still need to ride a horse for about 30 minutes, though. haha. Rasain.
There's always a place for chai and small conversation in every part of Kashmir
One of the resorts along the way up
And these are some pictures taken whilst riding a horse. Labels: India, Kashmir, Sonamarg
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Hi everyone! My weaknesses are pretty things and kindness. Knowledge is of high importance. I believe that everyone has the potential to become the best they can be and that beauty comes within. This is a spot where I'll share with you some of my adventures + my inner thoughts! Oh and don't forget to follow me on instagram! : @fidajacob
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